Thanks to the start of daylight saving I was actually ahead of time having left an hour earlier than I thought from Terlingua, getting to Presidio at about 10.30am. Over a large brunch and several coffees, I decided that I would cross into Mexico today rather than getting a motel from midday as there didn’t seem to be a huge amount of things to do in Presidio. I gathered my paperwork, passport and cash to enter Mexico, and I was feeling quite nervous. Most of the way through the US I was told to be very careful in Mexico and although I have always looked forward to getting there, I guess the constant warnings had got in a little. Still, I have always felt no fear, but excitement about riding in Mexico.
I rode towards US border control and stopped to wave at the camera. There was a tiny booth with reflective windows and nobody came out. I waited a moment then another car came up behind me so I had to continue over a large bridge and voila, I was in Mexico. Now the problem with that being so easy to leave the US is that my Australian bike has a temporary import permit that requires stamping when I leave the US to prove that I have left.
I rode into the Mexican border control where I had to stop and open my bags for checking, a cursory search really. They were more interested in the motorbike and my lack of Spanish.
‘You do not speak Spanish?’
‘No’.
‘You do not like to speak Spanish?’
‘Yes I would love to speak Spanish but I’ve just arrived and I hope to learn here.’
‘Que?’
The next ten minutes were spent looking at the bike and talking about all the bits, calling over the other guards to tell them about it and amazement at riding all the way from Australia…sort of. I lied about riding all the way across the Pacific Ocean.
I was directed to a parking area where an attendant directed me to a parking spot. He took me to a nearby building where I had my passport stamped. I was directed to a short line of people and waited for forty-five minutes while the slow process went through one person at a time. This was the line for motor vehicle entry. I had done my homework and had the right papers, the correct money and I was done in a little over five minutes once at the window. I paid a deposit of $300 for a vehicle built between 2001 and 2006 ($400 for post 2006) then a $51 entry fee. I get my deposit back when I leave Mexico.
I was through customs, I was in Mexico and it was only 1.30pm. But I had two things on my mind. I still hadn’t stamped my bike out of the US and I was told firmly by other travellers that I need liability insurance for Mexico. A hundred metres down the road was an insurance building so I went in and asked about insurance. The girl at the desk spoke perfect English so she was easy to discuss options with. The boss however had only part English and I didn’t feel like I was getting a good deal. The price seemed to be nebulous at best. I wasn’t happy to pay $250+ for 6 months insurance so I left, saying I’ll think about it and decided to return to the US to get my paperwork signed out.
The line into the US was long and based on previous advice I rode to the front of the line three or four cars back, and was soon waved forward to a booth. I explained what I needed to do and this caused some confusion, so I was waved to a waiting area where I spoke to another couple of customs officers. They finally understood what I was doing and took me into an office, signed the paperwork and that was that…almost.
‘Have you had your immigration paperwork finalised?’
‘Yes, no, what do you mean?’
‘Follow me please sir.’
DOH! I was taken to another waiting room with thirty or so people sitting and waiting, but was taken straight to the counter with all my paperwork and the situation explained.
‘Take a seat sir, it won’t be long.’
After ten minutes another officer came up to me and explained that it was a change of shift and there will be about a half hour wait while they get organised. Great. Almost an hour later, my paperwork that was sitting on a desk in plain view of me but seemingly invisible to them, was finally picked up and I was called to the counter.
‘How long will you be in the United States, sir?’
‘Just long enough to do a u-turn.’ I explained what had happened.
‘So you are going back to Mexico?’
‘Yes’
‘Be very careful there’
‘Thanks, I will.’
A discussion was held with superiors about my situation and after another five minutes the paperwork was brought out and I was given the all clear. I walked back to the bike and started it up to cross the bridge into Mexico for the second time. It was 5.30pm in the US but only 3.30 in Mexico, or at least the state of Chihuahua where I was. I still needed insurance. Getting a bit bored of the time this had taken I went into the insurance company, bought six months at $50 cheaper than they had quoted previously and at 4.15pm I was stamped, insured and on my way to Chihuahua city to see what awaited me.
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