It’s so sad that El
Salvador’s reputation keeps people away. I had a great time there. From the
first night when I camped at Parque El Imposible where I was given a pair of
shoes from a guy who had nothing, to my last night at La Palma where the
colourful murals put a big smile on my face. People were quick with a smile and
a wave, friendly, helpful, generous, humble and I have to say I found the girls
very pretty. The beaches were beautiful and I highly recommend La Tortuga Verde
as a destination at El Cuco.
Get hold of the map that
colour-codes the ten or so ‘Rutas’ and enjoy the drives. Ruta De Las Flores is
world class, even before everything is in bloom. Other rutas take you through
volcanic areas, along artisanal trails and more. The coastal road with its
twisty bends, views of the coast and tunnels is a great ride.
With the US Dollar as currency, cost
calculations are easy. Food was cheap and tasty, with my food vocabulary
extended to include pupusas. Accommodation was easy and cheap. Good quality
dorm rooms at hostels are $10 with standout places again being La Tortuga Verde in
the east and Casa Verde in Santa Ana.
The police stopped me three
times. Once for a licence check, once for doing 106 in a 90 km/h area, and a
third for doing an illegal u-turn. Each time I was let go with a warning (the
first was no problem) because I’m a bit naughty by speaking only in English,
feigning (or not) lack of understanding Spanish, smiling a lot and shaking
their hands. Being Australian is always a good ice breaker with a little demo
of how a kangaroo jumps. I think they get it that I’m not going to pay and I’ll
be out of the country soon. They were always polite, professional and there was
never a hint of asking for bribes. I think I just make it too hard for them and
usually they smile and shake their heads. Body language is international!
Finally the roads are excellent
and the drivers are amongst the most polite I have encountered in Central
America. Buses are respectful, unlike in Guatemala. Not so many people can
afford cars so there is not much traffic. The only exception is San Salvador
which I found confusing, gridlocked and just horrible to ride through.
There are many places I
didn’t get to see because of some issues with the bike but three weeks will
just get you to most of the sites. You may want to stay longer if you enjoy
lying around in a hammock by the beach. BIG thumbs up for El Salvador!!
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